Discover Bangkok from the Water

With worsening road traffic conditions in Bangkok, an increasing number of local residents opt to travel by water. You may not escape from the pollution – the waters of the Chao Phaya River are a murky brown – but at least you are spared the agony of watching the taxi fare double on the meter. A boat trip through the Khlongs (canals) of the western suburbs of Thonburi and Nonthaburi is a highlight of any visit to Bangkok as it provides a glimpse of the whole spectrum of Thai life, passing slums and palaces, markets and temples. Further away from the city the water becomes cleaner, the canals are quieter, the river banks greener, and in some places it still looks as it must have done half a century ago.

There are several options available: Chao Phaya express boats (Rua Dan) travel between Wat Rajingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north, with stops at some 40 piers along the way. Fares range from 4 to 14 THB, depending on the distance, and the waiting time is 15 to 20 minutes. Express boats with a triangular red or green flags at the stern do not stop at every pier and charge a few THB extra for the faster service. Passengers should note that there are few life vests on board these boats and they get very crowded at peak hours.

Commuter long-tail boats (Rua Hang Yao) which can seat up to 40 passengers are designed to negotiate the narrow canals. Routes are fixed and priced according to distance, and the piers are found just adjacent to the express boat piers. A particularly interesting ride is the one through the Bang Noi canal which starts at Tha Tien pier, the 30-minute round trip cruise taking you through a cross-section of Thai rural life and back. Smaller boats, called Rua Yon, which are quieter than the long-tail boats and throw up less spray, are ideal for charter. They seat up to ten people and can be rented for about 500 THB an hour, depending on your bargaining ability. Visitors can also opt for the luxury rice barge cruise operated by most travel agents. Canal tours offered by travel agents are usually on special long-tail boats with reclining seats.